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Aren't clecoes an amazing tool?! I hope whoever invented them made lots of money off the invention.
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1955 Vagabond
1956 30hp Evinrude Lark 1973 Glastron GT 150
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Last edit: by alanbiltz.
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When you're out of Clecos, it's rivet time!
Why? I don’t know.
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That’s mesmerizing , wow really amazing to see all that hard work.. coming together all that hard work is going to be worth it!
1957 Ranger IV, 1956 Evinrude 30HP
Love the Feathercraft!! Organization is the key to success.
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That looks really good.
I’ll let other chime in here, but If you’re not using a sealant between the backing sheets and the existing hull, I’d spray zinc-chromate (ZnCr) or epoxy on the joining surfaces to prevent corrosion between the sheets. I know Feathercraft did not do any of that originally, but I always try to put stuff back better than original.
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More wet weather gave me time to work on the patch.
The final backing plate needed the skin pulled closed before drilling. It had sprung out when I cut out the bad spot. I had to use a piece of 2 x 4 to make my clamp a long reach and then I had to clamp my clamp because it kept wanting to slip off. Pulled it flat, drilled and used machine screws to hold it closed until they were all drilled. After that the clecos held it closed. Plates are all deburred, countersunk, edges broke, and leading edge tapered to prevent gunk catching under the seat. This is how they fit between the stringers. . I'm out of clecos.
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Backing plate 2 pre-drilled.
Started countersinking holes for plate 1.
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Bad weather day gave me a chance to get one of the backing plates cleco'd into place.
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Considering where it is, I would go close spacing and staggered like the original Feather Craft seams.
Why? I don’t know.
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I forgot to ask for confirmation about rivet placement for the flush patch.
My understanding for flush rivets...2 1/2D edge spacing and 4 - 6D pitch. Since it's a flush patch, I should use 4D pitch for strength? |
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