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Well Jabe when kiddo and I took boat out Monday I had to empty canister every two hours!! Not recommend to troll with motor lol 
I’ve got a JW-10 I was going to mount for a kicker, unfortunately there’s no room on transom for it. Trying to avoid mounting electric motor because I don’t want to pack a 2nd battery. So not sure what I’ll do yet. There’s several alternatives I just have to decide on one. 

-kicker bracket maybe
-electric motor/battery 
​​​​​​-larger containment 
​​​​​​-run return line with pump in line

none of what I really like the idea of to be honest..
should’ve just let her pump oil/gas into lake like it was haha

Jabe 100% thx, I watched the 1st day I was actually able to run it, with temporary canister I had it was really close but didn’t hit a litre in the day, that can has site glass on right side which I’m guessing will be my first leak lol..
It will fill and enter vapour line if I let it.. between the vacuum at carb and the .300psi pressure from crank case it’s definitely a recipe for disaster! 
I installed drain which I can empty into a beer can if I decide to go out for longer than the day,. 

thank you!! I was fortunate not to have leak with temporary mixing jug but I drilled holes smaller than fuel line, installed o-rings in caps of jugs so got lucky…hopefully canister is as good but o-rings will be 1st fail I’m thinking.. have to look into type of material that gas doesn’t eat or expand to avoid leaks..

Just a quick note, keep an eye on reclaim reservoir, once it gets full it will get sucked up into the air silencer, dont ask how i know, just messy is all i will say, lol

Well ready for trip 6 after repairs..

As mentioned I pulled powerhead replaced baffle plate gaskets.
Noticed the old”new condenser “ had whitened up points last trip, so replaced bottom cylinder points.
Installed oil/gas recovery catch container to transom and tied the vapour line I originally added from crank case drain cover to vapour line from catch can that goes to intake(not 100% but may have to add check valve?)… originally I was worried oil/gas would enter vapour line at crank drain cover but running WOT and idle for a good day it did not..
Repaired throttle stop linkage noticed a while back threads on powerhead weren’t that great, I taped but not much aluminum left.. helicoil would probably fix (don’t have) but modified new bolt and fastened.. no play anymore and comfortable I won’t have to repair on the lake.
Reversed steering clamp on powerhead that John pointed out as a safety concern thanks John! and re-ran steering cable mostly because I had to to reverse. Tightening cables after because they stretched from new hmm.. maybe something other than steering cable will be in order? I’ll watch springs..
Hopefully get out tomorrow..

Well I’ve realized what’s happening in leg with the mystery screw I found..
so at first I really couldn’t understand why these screws were present.
Im now realizing that there’s a part missing haha.. I really couldn’t understand or figure the reason for screws. 
it appears that the exhaust loading assembly has simply just been removed.. looking at the part online it’s just a blank plate.. WHY?
My educated guess is..
that directs water exiting engine from coming up leg and then down exhaust chamber of leg.. or even possibly getting water into exhaust cover/chamber of motor.
Finding it removed makes me think it’s not crucial but certainly has purpose.(nobody wants water in bottom cylinder that just be all bad)
Is it normal to find missing? I think I can simply make this out of aluminum and possibly will next time powerhead is off. If your thoughts are it absolutely needs to be there I’ll tackle sooner than later.
Powerheads back in place last night gaskets setting up.. 
Open to suggestions on this blank plate.
 

I’d like to understand purpose of #106 I see zero reason for it..

Pulled powerhead yesterday..I see a difference in baffle plate gaskets, but holes all line up.. looks like exhaust chamber hole is larger, water pump exit is larger, crank hole is larger.. but all seems legit! Material is different also.appears that the missing screw is from exhaust loading tube, there’s a hair line crack also.  

Sounds good, flat head 10-24 bolt 3/4” long.
Yes on gaskets (I have as I planned on doing)question on the two gaskets do I use a high temp rtv sealant on them or something similar ? Or install dry?

.. I guess you understand I just got motor going so I’m procrastinating.. I’d really like to see top side of shift rod in person anyways to wrap my head around.. so going for it I suppose.

SO the big question is what else should I have or look at repairing while powerhead is removed? Be nice not to have to do twice in a couple months.. open to suggestions.

ps..

drive shaft at drive shaft seal cause of gear case leak. Everything I replaced is holding vacuum and pressure.. I did find this on rebuild but was being cheap or watching dollars when I did so and replaced all seals but not pitted/scared drive shaft.. just forgot about.

thx!

Yes it requires powerhead removal. Screw 21 is usually a fine thread machine screw with a hex head. Screw 21 could fall off and shifting would still work. You have to remove the power head anyway to replace those two leaking gaskets between the power head and the exhaust housing.

Sounds good boatboy!! To be clear this requires powerhead removal correct?

if it were #21 I think I’d had lost shifting?