TOPIC:

Curtis, Attached are factory instructions covering what we were discussing on the phone this evening. 

cballer wrote:

Vintin 

ok what I was trying to say is my cam has a long high spot so it’s not just at one spot.. 

I did not know points were to be set at WOT! This could be my issue? 

this also tells me I should have throttle set up correctly prior to setting points.




 

The coil fires as soon as the points open. The .020 points gap being set correctly is what sets the timing. If you change the point gap it changes the timing setting and that is why it is important to get the point gap right on. The long flat spot on the cam does nothing but hold the points open. Do check that the rubbing block on the points is on that high spot of the cam when you set the .020 points gap. 

Vintin 

ok what I was trying to say is my cam has a long high spot so it’s not just at one spot.. 

I did not know points were to be set at WOT! This could be my issue? 

this also tells me I should have throttle set up correctly prior to setting points.



 

The points are set at .020 inches at the highest point on the cam. 

The mag plate rotates around the crankshaft about 20° and the points are on the mag plate. This is what gives the ignition spark advance. The throttle should be at wide open when the points are set and wide open is where max timing advance is reached. I've used a small pair of vice grips to keep the mag plate up against the mag plate stop point on my 35 hp. 

You've got several variables going at the same time. It makes problem solving much more difficult. 

 



 

Vintin

from what I’ve seen in my research your right my 56 bolt configuration is different from 57 on transfer port cover. I maybe able to make it work I’ll inspect tomorrow.
Originally last year motor did run with tank set up like mentioned by gravity but certainly needed tuning with throttle and timing. This was done after new ignition/carb overhaul. 
So from what I’ve seen out of this motor so far it runs the same with fuel pump where it is in comparison to gravity fed..
I’m still going to try put factory transfer port cover on because what you both mentioned the way it directs air flow and was put there for a reason but personally not seen a difference.
I feel all my issues are pointing at ignition and then to follow linkage/fuel/air.. understanding the linkage for some reason has been my fault for sure. But still concerned about my points and how their set up..

so here’s how I’m seeing it now that I’ve changed the position of my points god only knows how many times..

to start.. my cam on crank has a high point of around 3/8” to 1/2” long.. I’ve compared to top dead Center of both piston heads.. before either piston hits top dead Center the cam is at its highest point of that 3/8”. When pistons hit top there’s a dead spot before they move down towards bottom end this is in the beginning/middle of that 3/8” of the high spot of cam. On the down stroke my cam is at end of high spot of that 3/8” but does seem to be at high spot of cam on down stroke longer than on up stroke which does seem odd to me... 
Ive set points to be fully open at the beginning of high spot on cam, the middle of the high spot, the end of that high spot of cam.. 
from what I can tell top dead center of piston before it moves to down stroke is at the beginning of that 3/8” on high mark of cam. Confusing to explain this and you all must think I’m nutty we’ll it’s true I’m going nutty if I’m not already..
so if this is clear to you, can you tell me where is the ideal place in this stroke of pistons to set my .020”? In my eyes it’s just before the dead spot before pistons head hits top stroke..
I’m really not sure but don’t see why it’s not similar to a V8 ? As for setting a distributor advanced or retardant? But does this relate to the length the cam is at its highest spot.. like 15deg/0deg/-15deg?
I maybe looking to deep here but truly feel my points are the leading cause of my struggles. 

so where’s best spot to set these bad boys..

 

cballer wrote:

Vintin that’s good to know!! I had plugged one so I would have pulse rather than just full pressure. Unfortunately I had to go in and plug both because it was pressuring up hose I capped off like a yellow balloon.. put that yellow hose to the test it’s pretty strong.
if I can’t alter original transfer port cover I’ll have to go back in and pull one of the two plugs and order 3 line fuel pump unfortunately.

My 57 Johnson 35 hp wasn't drilled but the transfer port cover was cast to be drilled and tapped to accept a fuel pump. I believe the OMC Gale motors were already coming from the factory with fuel pumps in 57.

I'm guessing that the port covers for 56 and 57 motors differ and are not the same part number.

At any rate you don't need a fuel pump if you hang a tank like Ray suggested. Just run straight to the carb input and have the tank higher than the carb by a couple of feet. I don't know exactly what height would be good but the higher the higher pressure of course. 

Vintin that’s good to know!! I had plugged one so I would have pulse rather than just full pressure. Unfortunately I had to go in and plug both because it was pressuring up hose I capped off like a yellow balloon.. put that yellow hose to the test it’s pretty strong.
if I can’t alter original transfer port cover I’ll have to go back in and pull one of the two plugs and order 3 line fuel pump unfortunately.

cballer wrote:

Ok yes I believe these are old pressure to pressure tank, when converting to a 3 hose pump (a in/out ant a pulse)you plug one in return getting a pulse.. I just plugged both as I’m using transfer port for a in/out fuel

Plugging those two small reeds like you've done should have zero effect on how the motor runs. Those are the ones that feed pressure to the pressure tanks. The may be identical to the crankcase drain reeds. 

Ray yes that’s the stop you are mentioning.. so when that hits boss is this where the set screw on linkage should hit allowing throttle body to full open? Or should throttle fully open before/after armature hits this boss..

And Ray my hugest apologies I just realized the function of that set screw though it’s been said!! That is why the last couple days I couldn’t figure out why butterfly wasn’t opening I moved today and finally had WOT..