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1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 06 Sep 2022 18:37 #122378

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So after speaking to boatboy yesterday this is my attempt once again. Tried to show relationship from tiller handle gear to magneto to throttle saver linkage set screw and then WOT. Set everything with mag plate butted up against boss on powerhead (back of motor) fuel throttle.. also checked points while in this position.

then show where magneto Cam lines up with manifold point advancing cam follower moving carb butterfly to fuel throttle.. 

I noticed my spark plugs have reversed roll where couple days ago top plug was wet/oily.. now it’s dry and seems to have good burning. And bottom plug is the wet/oily one..
while checking points it’s very difficult to see in video but the bottom set of points has a off white burnt powder on them, I cleaned up.

so how’s the cam set up look off of mag plate to cam follower?
and
hows linkage for throttle saver look?
and
what would cause points to burn white/grey on bottom cylinder? 

im going to screw around with ohm meter on points to see continuity and ohm reading of closed to open just to see relationship to tOp of cam on crank.. curiosity thing.


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1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 06 Sep 2022 04:56 #122366

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Boatboy of course on collar, 3rd trip out something had to happen I guess. Maybe one day the ranger will fly just not today.. great learning speed today though for kiddo to steer while I fumble around in transom…max 13km/hr. Very thankful paddle wasn’t used today though frustrated!! prop did get us home at least.

ok on dwell angle thought I’d ask out of curiosity more than anything. After speaking to you on where to set points I’m pretty sure I was looking to deep into something so very simple.. as for setting gap on “tOp” dead center.

 
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Last edit: by cballer.

1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 06 Sep 2022 03:55 #122365

You will need that collar in order to get full throttle response. 

I have never used a dwell meter setting points but have used an ohm meter for setting points.
John

1958 Vagabond II & 35 HP Evinrude
1955 PlastiCraft 12 Ft. Delux Runabout
1957 Clipper & twin 35 HP Evinrudes
1957 AlumaCraft 14 Ft. FD
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1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 06 Sep 2022 02:03 #122362

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Thx John! The the 304222 collar broke on me while on water today

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 thanks for call..

one thing I was going to ask and forgot to ..do you use a dwell angle meter at all setting points ever?
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Last edit: by cballer.

1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 06 Sep 2022 01:47 #122360

Curtis, Attached are factory instructions covering what we were discussing on the phone this evening. 
John

1958 Vagabond II & 35 HP Evinrude
1955 PlastiCraft 12 Ft. Delux Runabout
1957 Clipper & twin 35 HP Evinrudes
1957 AlumaCraft 14 Ft. FD

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Last edit: by Boatboy.

1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 05 Sep 2022 16:33 #122352

Vintin 

ok what I was trying to say is my cam has a long high spot so it’s not just at one spot.. 

I did not know points were to be set at WOT! This could be my issue? 

this also tells me I should have throttle set up correctly prior to setting points.




 


The coil fires as soon as the points open. The .020 points gap being set correctly is what sets the timing. If you change the point gap it changes the timing setting and that is why it is important to get the point gap right on. The long flat spot on the cam does nothing but hold the points open. Do check that the rubbing block on the points is on that high spot of the cam when you set the .020 points gap. 

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1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 05 Sep 2022 16:08 #122351

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Vintin 

ok what I was trying to say is my cam has a long high spot so it’s not just at one spot.. 

I did not know points were to be set at WOT! This could be my issue? 

this also tells me I should have throttle set up correctly prior to setting points.



 
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Last edit: by cballer.

1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 05 Sep 2022 10:48 #122348

The points are set at .020 inches at the highest point on the cam. 

The mag plate rotates around the crankshaft about 20° and the points are on the mag plate. This is what gives the ignition spark advance. The throttle should be at wide open when the points are set and wide open is where max timing advance is reached. I've used a small pair of vice grips to keep the mag plate up against the mag plate stop point on my 35 hp. 

You've got several variables going at the same time. It makes problem solving much more difficult. 

 



 

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Last edit: by VinTin.

1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 05 Sep 2022 05:53 #122347

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Vintin

from what I’ve seen in my research your right my 56 bolt configuration is different from 57 on transfer port cover. I maybe able to make it work I’ll inspect tomorrow.
Originally last year motor did run with tank set up like mentioned by gravity but certainly needed tuning with throttle and timing. This was done after new ignition/carb overhaul. 
So from what I’ve seen out of this motor so far it runs the same with fuel pump where it is in comparison to gravity fed..
I’m still going to try put factory transfer port cover on because what you both mentioned the way it directs air flow and was put there for a reason but personally not seen a difference.
I feel all my issues are pointing at ignition and then to follow linkage/fuel/air.. understanding the linkage for some reason has been my fault for sure. But still concerned about my points and how their set up..

so here’s how I’m seeing it now that I’ve changed the position of my points god only knows how many times..

to start.. my cam on crank has a high point of around 3/8” to 1/2” long.. I’ve compared to top dead Center of both piston heads.. before either piston hits top dead Center the cam is at its highest point of that 3/8”. When pistons hit top there’s a dead spot before they move down towards bottom end this is in the beginning/middle of that 3/8” of the high spot of cam. On the down stroke my cam is at end of high spot of that 3/8” but does seem to be at high spot of cam on down stroke longer than on up stroke which does seem odd to me... 
Ive set points to be fully open at the beginning of high spot on cam, the middle of the high spot, the end of that high spot of cam.. 
from what I can tell top dead center of piston before it moves to down stroke is at the beginning of that 3/8” on high mark of cam. Confusing to explain this and you all must think I’m nutty we’ll it’s true I’m going nutty if I’m not already..
so if this is clear to you, can you tell me where is the ideal place in this stroke of pistons to set my .020”? In my eyes it’s just before the dead spot before pistons head hits top stroke..
I’m really not sure but don’t see why it’s not similar to a V8 ? As for setting a distributor advanced or retardant? But does this relate to the length the cam is at its highest spot.. like 15deg/0deg/-15deg?
I maybe looking to deep here but truly feel my points are the leading cause of my struggles. 

so where’s best spot to set these bad boys..

 
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1957 Ranger IV, Evinrude 30hp Lark 05 Sep 2022 04:22 #122346

Vintin that’s good to know!! I had plugged one so I would have pulse rather than just full pressure. Unfortunately I had to go in and plug both because it was pressuring up hose I capped off like a yellow balloon.. put that yellow hose to the test it’s pretty strong.
if I can’t alter original transfer port cover I’ll have to go back in and pull one of the two plugs and order 3 line fuel pump unfortunately.


My 57 Johnson 35 hp wasn't drilled but the transfer port cover was cast to be drilled and tapped to accept a fuel pump. I believe the OMC Gale motors were already coming from the factory with fuel pumps in 57.

I'm guessing that the port covers for 56 and 57 motors differ and are not the same part number.

At any rate you don't need a fuel pump if you hang a tank like Ray suggested. Just run straight to the carb input and have the tank higher than the carb by a couple of feet. I don't know exactly what height would be good but the higher the higher pressure of course. 
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Last edit: by VinTin.
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