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1948 Meteor Restoration 12 Jul 2024 01:07 #129939

Thanks Ray. I just posted a new thread. Kind of embarrasing - the dents are so minor compared to the major things you've been up against and accomplished. BTW, love the engineering thoughts that go into your repairs and rebuilds. I appreciate the expertise and skills.

- Mark

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1948 Meteor Restoration 12 Jul 2024 00:56 #129937

Oh boy, now I’m worried. My Vagabond is dented on the sides at the front of the bow. I’ve been wondering how to attack that issue. So as not to muddy up your thread, I’ll post in a separate thread with some pictures - hopefully later tonight.

- Mark









Post some photos and let’s see what you’re up against. One thing about dent repair is you very nearly always make things better or don’t make much difference all but it’s a safe bet you won’t make things worse. A little effort can go a long way, patience and determination are the main skills needed.
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Last edit: by Locomotion.

1948 Meteor Restoration 11 Jul 2024 18:17 #129934

Oh boy, now I’m worried. My Vagabond is dented on the sides at the front of the bow. I’ve been wondering how to attack that issue. So as not to muddy up your thread, I’ll post in a separate thread with some pictures - hopefully later tonight.

- Mark

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1948 Meteor Restoration 11 Jul 2024 12:18 #129922

Ray, as always, your work is amazing. One question: how do you determine whether to use heat or not when banging out those dents?

- Mark








Mark,
To follow up on your question and hopefully make things a bit more clear, when I was doing my first reconstruction of a Feather Craft I ran into a wall when I was trying to knock the dents out of the tumblehome on my 1950 Flyer. The more I beat on the dents, the less progress I made. I was lucky enough to have Mark Logan(Eagle127), who is a career airplane mechanic, available as a long distance advisor. When I described to Mark my situation he knew right away what the problem was, the sheeting was extremely work hardened from both the original dents and from my continued hammering on the sheeting. Mark knew the only way forward was to anneal the sheeting and soften it so it would be malleable enough to work the dents out. My first attempt was unnerving and only partly successful as I tried to anneal the entire tumblehome at once and when the sheeting reached the temperature where it softened it massively distorted from expansion. I learned an important lesson, work as small a section as possible when heating and annealing, the heat produced expansion has to be dealt with and it is a bit of a learning curve to know what to expect and how to react.
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Last edit: by Locomotion.

1948 Meteor Restoration 11 Jul 2024 01:40 #129915

Ray, as always, your work is amazing. One question: how do you determine whether to use heat or not when banging out those dents?

- Mark









Hey Mark,

Thanks for the kind words.
In this case the metal was bunched up where the flange sort of had a corner from the curved side that the tumblehome wraps to where the rear deck attaches that is almost flat, so the extra material that was bunched up needed to be shrunk so it would lay flat. When you heat it the bunched-up part expands and wrinkles up even more and if you hammer it flat then it actually gets thicker but shorter (or shrinks in length).
Heating it to the point it anneals makes it softer, so any bending process is easier and less likely to fracture or crack the sheeting. You can easily bend 5052 Aluminum up to about 0.090" thick cold if you have a corner radius equal to or greater than the thickness of the sheeting. Any sharper bend, especially if you are bending with the grain, can crack if you don't anneal it first. 5052 Aluminum regains its hardness over about three days' time.
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Last edit: by Locomotion.

1948 Meteor Restoration 11 Jul 2024 01:07 #129914

Ray, as always, your work is amazing. One question: how do you determine whether to use heat or not when banging out those dents?

- Mark

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1948 Meteor Restoration 10 Jul 2024 21:28 #129912

Well, I was eager to complete the center deck and fab the doghouse but I decided that it would be best if the transom was completed before the center deck just to make sure everything was very rigid when the center deck gets attached.



There were a few places at the corners of the new transom that needed cleaning up, a little heating and hammering took care of those.









I have a few holes to drill and countersink where the center section of the bottom is sandwiched between the double bottom and the center strip that runs the length of the bottom. More like a hundred or so, but I didn’t want to split the double bottom and try seal it back up so it’s sort of a flush patched section right in the center.



Joe keeps telling me he’s ready to do more riveting, his chance is coming right up.  ;-)

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Last edit: by Locomotion.

1948 Meteor Restoration 28 Jun 2024 16:21 #129783

Joe (timberwolfe) was here this morning and we liberated about 100 clecos in about 2 hours.
Rivets going in sure feels good at this point ;-)



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Last edit: by Locomotion.

1948 Meteor Restoration 27 Jun 2024 21:46 #129776

Joe is coming over tomorrow to rivet this part in.
Drilled and detailed.



Ready to rivet, the side are getting 1/4" rivets since they are holding so much in place.
Somehow, I didn't get a photo of the last step, but the sides have been trimmed and drilled for 1/4" rivets. 

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Last edit: by Locomotion.

1948 Meteor Restoration 11 Jun 2024 02:21 #129565

Charlie. How many times have I told you to bring the small hammer instead of the big MFH hammer ?  You don't have to drive that steel hammer down......
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