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I was able to use the original holes in the hull bottom and sides and drill through them into the new transom.
This boat has every style of rivet head there is scattered around everywhere. In most places I am going back with 3/16” brazier head rivets. That way, where I have over size holes, I can use 1/4” modified brazier head rivets and the heads will match, plus I don’t have to change the tool in my rivet gun to switch back and forth. A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men.
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Looking good!
Are those 3/16 Modified Braziers? That's whats on the '46.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Locomotion
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Better than factory ! Did you use a hole finder Ray or wing it ?
The following user(s) said Thank You: Locomotion
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Never seen such a beautiful porcupine, looking awesome
The following user(s) said Thank You: Locomotion, seaforrest
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Most of the holes for the transom are match drilled and clecoed in place, more holes to be drilled in the section at the bottom where I'm saving the part of the transom sheeting that is sandwiched between the double hull.
The little section at the upper left of the transom that is not drilled will be cut out for the first flush patch, the first of many more to come. A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men.
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Last edit: by Locomotion.
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Not really, I braced up the boat before I took the transom out, then made a pattern to fit the boat. A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men.
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Very handsome work ! Did you use the original as a pattern ?
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That turned out really well guys. I bet after all that hammering no one is going to call either of you "lightning".
( When I worked construction years ago the boss would call new hires "lightning" when he would hear the missed hammer strikes on nails of a new employee. The new people would always ask "why you calling me lightning?" to the reply of the boss,"because you never strike the same place twice!") Good times......... 1955 Vagabond
1956 30hp Evinrude Lark 1973 Glastron GT 150 |
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Nice guys it must of took a lot to get the edges rolled in perfectly like that!!
1957 Ranger IV, 1956 Evinrude 30HP
Love the Feathercraft!! Organization is the key to success. |
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Charlie came over and helped me form the transom sheet, it is a big piece, nearly a full sheet of 3/4" plywood to make the buck and the top cover piece. Once it's all bolted together it's a lot to wrestle around and a tag team was the only way to go. We started by annealing the outer edge that would be formed into the flange, then bolting it between the two sheets of plywood, I intended to get photos throughout the process but once we got rolling, I forgot all about that so what I got is all I got.
It will still get some adjustments and there will be three different flush patches tying into this transom sheet plus the new rear deck that tops this piece. This is the layout of the sheeting to trim to fit. These are the buck and the clamping plywood sheets. Once the sheeting is clamped between the plywood and then clamped to the table we took turns on the hammer and then on heating and hammering when it came to shrinking the flange into shape. When you roil that long of a radiused edge down an inch all the way around like this you have a lot of extra material gathering in the flange and making ruffles, it all has to be shrunk down to fit the buck. A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men.
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Last edit: by Locomotion.
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