Nice work.  The epoxy would have been worth the learning curve though.

Very nice work, looks great!

New transom. Now I'm ready for my motor. Last picture is Tommy sanding on my transom. I didn't use epoxy because I don't know how to work with it. I used water resistant Gorilla glue and biscuits because I knew I could do it. 

I like eating  biscuits and gravy. I mean... I like to use biscuits with edge gluing. As Larry said they are good for assembly, but they also add in a little more gluing surface too. No right or wrong way on this edge gluing topic.  I thicken my epoxy with wood pulp.

Biscuits are beech and designed to swell with glue/moisture.  They are handy to keep the individual planks in plane while the epoxy is curing but not required.  You can simply clamp and wait.  All epoxies are water safe, the slower the cure the greater the strength.

Jeffries will plane or edge and cut to length and they sell by the board foot, greatest people to do business with and one of the coolest places to browse around if you have to wait, they have every type of wood you could imagine.

I use Loctite Marine Epoxy, I have tried to separate pieces I had glued years before, a large chisel and 2# sledgehammer wouldn’t touch it, I could split the wood with the grain but not separate the glued seam. I have never used biscuits or any other type of dowel.

www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/buil...te_epoxy_marine.html

I would be afraid if water got in the biscuit joint it would cause it to come apart or water would stay in there and cause it to rot from the inside out ask Ray what he uses on his transoms or I'm sure he will see this and respond 
Charlie 

The Art Doctor post=110457 wrote: I used sapele it was around $120 to do the job. I used a single plank 9 inches wide.  Widths vary so measure each plank and get the right one.  That got me the inside ( I needed it wide to do a raised transom to get the motor height correct) and an 18 inch seamed outside.  You can get it wide enough out of one piece but it will cost you.  I dont have a planer or joiner just a table saw and my seam is not perfect.  I adhered with bob smith slow set epoxy and it is holding well and has not split.   Overall finish every surface with Petit Captains varnish. Measure motor before you cut.  Distance from underside of motor clamps to anti cavitation plate should equal bottom of boat to height of wood.  This may be taller than your sheetmetal transom and you will need to plan accordingly.

My outside transom, the part I have to replace, was two pieces, not glued together. You glued yours together? What about using biscuits to join? I have access to all kinds of woodworking tools.

I'm going to Jeffries tomorrow and get mahogany. Chris said they have it in stock.
 

I used sapele it was around $120 to do the job. I used a single plank 9 inches wide.  Widths vary so measure each plank and get the right one.  That got me the inside ( I needed it wide to do a raised transom to get the motor height correct) and an 18 inch seamed outside.  You can get it wide enough out of one piece but it will cost you.  I dont have a planer or joiner just a table saw and my seam is not perfect.  I adhered with bob smith slow set epoxy and it is holding well and has not split.   Overall finish every surface with Petit Captains varnish. Measure motor before you cut.  Distance from underside of motor clamps to anti cavitation plate should equal bottom of boat to height of wood.  This may be taller than your sheetmetal transom and you will need to plan accordingly.

White oak will work and resist water and resist rot but it is heavy and I have seen it crack in service.
Sepele or Mahogany is better but nether is cheap, if you decide to go that way I would recommend Jeffries Wood Works in South Knoxville