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TOPIC: 1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special"

1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 26 Jun 2019 21:45 #96776

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perfect fix.........looks great.........
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1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 26 Jun 2019 21:32 #96775

Marching along.

Remember this:



Recent eBay purchase, dumb luck but I think this is what was there. The three mounting screw holes lined up and covered the extra two even if it was mounted ever so slightly crooked.



I cleaned, polished and adjusted it and it works pretty well and looks so much better than the jagged hole.

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1952 Deluxe Runabout

1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 26 Jun 2019 21:32 #96774

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I'd go with 8 too, using the 2 from the add on at the top, 4 of the existing ones, and 2 new at the bottom. Something like...



Not exactly in line, but it probably wouldn't be obvious to the casual observer. I don't think a plate is necessary, nor is filling them, unless the ones you can see below the inner transom board bother you aesthetically. A bead of sealant on the inside of the outer board should prevent any leaks. I'd be tempted to cut a groove a bit inside the edge to hide it from the outside and prevent squeeze out. Also relieve it where the middle transom bracket rivets are so it snugs up flat, if you haven't done that already.

Good looking piece of wood. Bet it'll look nice stained/finished.

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Last edit: by RickG.

1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 26 Jun 2019 12:14 #96762

Thanks for the replies. Jabe for the 18" I measured from the inside top of the motors clamp to the top of the anti-cavitation plate, right at 18". Installed on the hull I am closer to 17 7/8" from the bottom of the boat to the top of the transom so that should put the plate right at the bottom of the boat as I have seen recommended many times. I spaced the four new ones at the top so they would not fall where the motors clamps would be. It looks like your top two large carriage bolts catch the inside wood as well and the bottom two obviously not. The rest of your hardware looks like 1/4" only.

I will try and find some order in the chaos of holes.

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1952 Deluxe Runabout

1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 26 Jun 2019 10:50 #96759

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she is a process.......i think you may be a bit high at 18"...........i found if you draw a center line and mark corresponding holes it will determine who is who.....i honestly believe the boys at FC just drilled by eye........ya get good after a couple thousand.......
here is a pic of what i had........and like mike said......counter sink the heads, especially where your motor touches........other wise you end up grounding the hull via the motor........

the top 4 horizontal holes are new for where i raised the boards.........

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1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 26 Jun 2019 01:01 #96751

Are you sure the transom is not to high? Dry fit the motor to check and make sure there are no bolts or screws where the motor brackets touch. I have seen bolts on the outer portion of the transom wood and counter sunk screws in the center.
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Mike
1950 Skipper on Holsclaw Boat Roadster trailer
1954 Vagabond w/ '57 Johnson 35hp
1955 Alumacraft FD on a Gator trailer
1956 Alumacraft FD

1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 26 Jun 2019 00:47 #96749

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Larry that's going to be a beautiful transom, nice job.

Here is what I did on the hawk.
The two upper carriage bolts hold the inside transom on inside the splash well, also the back transom as you can see. Then the two lower bolts are just for the outside wood.
I would say 8... 4 per side. My thinking is you don't want the glue joint to break under stress. I also used some clear silicone on some previous holes. It works well and is easy. And I used silicone on the bolts before pushing them in.

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Mercury Marc, 1958 Hawk II. 1961 Merc 400
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1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 25 Jun 2019 23:52 #96742

Started in on the wood working. Well it actually began with some metal working first. I had to first get the transom relatively flat, it was very wavy with some big bulges at mounting holes, like someone pulled on them. Nothing my trusty Martin hammer and dolly set could not fix. I actually only used the slapping hammer on dolly as the aluminum is so soft you need not hit it hard at all.


Now that the transom is flat-ish I could test fit the wood. I went with the sapele. It was locally available and cost effective and for a non-expert wood worker I think I did OK enough. I need 18" of height for the '56 Johnson thus the 3" rise. I added a sheet of aluminum the thickness of the transom between the risen parts to keep everything spaced just right



It looks a little long but that is a optical thing as it is not snugged up, it is actually about 1/2" short of the bottom as there is a bulge there. Is that enough? or should I go a little shorter? There are old holes I need to cover (see below) so I do not want to go too much shorter.

Ok here is the real issue and I totally need some advice. No less than 41!!!! holes inside the trapezoidal shape marked by the tape.



None of these are well placed in evenly spaced lines, just all sort of over the place. Many are filled with some sort of yellow epoxy putty. If I use these my bolt spacing will look awful. How many does one really need? I feel like I want to fill them all with epoxy and start over with 3 or 4 rows of 4 evenly spaced bolts so it looks good from the outside. What are 12 - 14 more holes when you already have 41 (and possibly some may line up, right?). My welder buddy wants to weld a plate over all of them and then start from scratch. What would you do if it were yours?

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1952 Deluxe Runabout

1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 23 Jun 2019 14:26 #96667

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I hope Joe Poole can make it over to AH this fall. He already knows I have a seat waiting for him. :hello:
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Mercury Marc, 1958 Hawk II. 1961 Merc 400

1952 DR Restoration "the Marathon Special" 23 Jun 2019 01:55 #96660

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VERY nice job!
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