Merky, I have the carb with the electric solenoid choke, though it is not electrically hooked up. I have been using it manually only as it is 6V and I am running a 12V battery.
For the flywheel I used a harmonic balancer puller and the impact as I am always afraid of jamming something in there to keep it from moving and breaking something off. Bring along your collection and the extra pressure tank if you do not mind. I will happily wait till Arrowhead to change out anything under there and let one of you show me how to do it.
The Art Doctor wrote: Pulling the flywheel in the field without an impact gun to change them is probably out of the question. Just running out of time for Arrowhead.
I have never used an impact wrench to remove a flywheel. I use a harmonic balancer puller, a breaker bar, a big screwdriver and a hammer. Tighten the puller with the breaker bar using the screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning, rap on the flywheel with the hammer and it should pop loose.
I should probably better define the symptoms. It starts a little tough when cold and then idles Ok, if a bit rough shaking sided to side a bit. Starts easily and idles well and smooth when warm all with slow speed needle at about 3/4 out. If I were to jam the throttle all the way forward from idle it will pick up a tiny bit but then shutter and fall flat and sometimes die. If I very slowly raise the throttle it will gently gain RPM's and run smoothly until about 1/3 to 1/2 and the hull starts to rise up slightly this is where if I push the throttle farther forward is starts to stutter and fall flat loosing speed. If I have gone too far if I back off slightly it will still run poorly. I can back off to 1/4 and then pick it up and go back to 1/2 puttering. If I back off fully it settles into a idle OK and then I can advance the throttle again to the 1/3 to 1/2 point and putter along. Occasionally when sitting idle if I jam the throttle it gains RPM's fast for a second or two then falls flat though the one time it took off like a shot.
I do no have a carb kit in the technical term, though these carbs are so simple there is little to change out. I got a new needle (with the retaining clip) and seat with gasket. The bowl gasket is in good shape and does not leak, packing around needles is good as lower does not leak and top seems to be working OK (I added an o-ring to existing packing in each and greased needles). Idle circuit port is clear, main jet is clear and beyond that there is nothing to change.
I have a new float on order but it will not get here in time, I will consider this one a temporary fix. I read every forum post on coating cork floats from outboards to Model T Fords to tractors and vintage lawnmower enthusiasts and there are tons of opinions. Super glue, epoxy, polyurethane, PVC pipe cement, hot fuel proof dope, gas tank sealer and something called "seal all" in a tube. Consensus seems to be it must be light weight and obviously fuel proof. Most seem to work for somebody though no true winner emerged as all have their proponents and detractors and each seems to appear in multiple threads on the subject. Running the carb dry at the end of the day seems to be a good preservation method.
I am going to fiddle with the tank while the float coating is drying. The carb was full of fuel and came pouring out when I pulled the high speed needle and kept coming out till I released the tank pressure as I forgot to do this prior. I think that is a good sign that fuel can flow.....which may mean the problem is elsewhere........
I have an extra pair of coils and condensers as well, I am just trying not to change everything at once so I know where the problem was so if it happens again Ill know what to do. Pulling the flywheel in the field without an impact gun to change them is probably out of the question. Just running out of time for Arrowhead. I am guessing if one or both of the new coils in it now were bad it would not fire a plug at all and both are firing, right? Electrics may be my problem indeed.
Airplane dope is not recommended for sealing cork floats. I called the company that makes it and they said it will not hold up long when floating in gas. Have you checked all the orifices on your carb to make sure they are clear and flow well? Mud dobbers have been known to plug up some holes on carbs as well as flakes of shellac from a bad float. Bad condensers can cause all kinds of problems that you would never even think of. Is the check valve on the pickup tube in your gas tank free? I have found many to be stuck from sitting in old gas too long. They can usually be freed up with a good soaking in carb cleaner.
Neil, (or others) Carb question. Where the high speed jet that screws into the upper casting fits into the recess in the bottom of the bow casting is there no gasket? I have looked in my parts manual and I do not see a gasket listed. Is this in fact a metal to metal seal? Should it not need a gasket or is the metal to metal fit tight enough to keep unmetered gas from seeping in above where the high speed needle is? I test fitted the carb together without the bowl gasket in place and it does seem to rest on that ring of metal leaving a gap sufficient for the bowl gasket to crush down and seal while putting the metal to metal under pressure from the bowl screws. Just something I was wondering about.
I got the needle and seat and am working on the float chipping off all the old shellac as it was badly cracking. I'm letting the cork dry out overnight as some gas had begin to penetrate it and will begin coating in the morning. Not sure if this is going to be the fix I am looking for but either way it is good to get these parts replaced/repaired to prevent issues down the road.
I called Joe Poole late yesterday and he has a needle and seat in stock and we discussed resealing the float with airplane dope as one is not going to get to me in time. I should have the needle and seat by this afternoon as he is just down the road from me, we are practically neighbors. I will try this next
Dan, I think the sinc is OK but I am green at this stuff. There was not the marks that the manual said it should have, or at least I did not see what it described. All I could see was a impressed line that seemed to line up with the follower wheel at low speed.
Alan, That is what I am thinking of doing, bypassing the disconnect. Talking with some guys this morning at our weekly old cars and donuts event one suggested a clear fuel filter added inline to be able to visually see what the fuel is doing and or adding an inline fuel pressure gauge to monitor how much it is pushing out.
Hoping to get it worked out, but now planning on bringing it to Arrowhead either way for all to scratch their heads over if I do not.