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TOPIC: Another restoration thread

Another restoration thread 16 Jul 2019 22:36 #97468

Boatboy wrote: Prior to 1958 OMC only had one wire coming out of the Magneto that went to the cut out switch. It sounds like you have a 1957 or earlier Mag plate on your engine. The two wire setup came with the use of an ignition key switch.


Ok ... soooo ... I must have a 1957 Johnson then with the one wire, not the 58. I do have an ignition switch that came in the parts box and I assumed it was for this motor but maybe it was just on the boat. Anyway, so since I have the one wire mag plate I'm guessing that I don't actually use the ignition switch and should just use a momentary toggle switch for the starter solenoid and the kill switch. I guess there really isn't anything external that needs to run the motor, other then the starter switch to turn the starter (or pull start) and the kill switch (which should short out the points so it stops turning thus stopping the current). Is this right? Sorry about all of the silly questions. I'm quite good around a car motor but for this motors electrical seems to have thrown me for a bit of a loop.
Anywho ... I ended up making a new clip for the cable. I had a bit of stainless steel kicking around so I used it, even though it's a bit thin. It seems quite stiff so I think it may work but I'll know for sure when I have it mounted with the cable. I'll probably make something thicker this weekend but I think it was a pretty good first kick at the cat. I'll probably cut and weld next time though as I don't really have a great method of bending the metal properly with only a half inch space between.
Here are a couple pictures of the first try if anyone is interested.

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Another restoration thread 14 Jul 2019 01:59 #97373

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Prior to 1958 OMC only had one wire coming out of the Magneto that went to the cut out switch. It sounds like you have a 1957 or earlier Mag plate on your engine. The two wire setup came with the use of an ignition key switch.

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John

1958 Vagabond II & 35 HP Evinrude
1955 PlastiCraft 12 Ft. Delux Runabout
1957 Clipper & twin 35 HP Evinrudes
1957 AlumaCraft 14 Ft. FD

Another restoration thread 13 Jul 2019 18:15 #97365

Thanks Charlie! Yeah, that makes sense. I was thinking that if I used one of the "unused" wires in the harness (yellow or green ... I think were the colours) for the wire going to the other set points it would be clean and easy to disconnect when in transit. It looks like pretty much everything else makes sense and seems to be wired correctly. I'm a bit surprised that the wire on the second set of points isn't there. I suppose the motor has gone through a number of owners and at some point it had been removed inadvertently. I just want to make sure I have everything all set up properly before doing a test start and run. Going to head out and pick up a new starter solenoid at the local auto store today. There's a bit of corrosion on the original one and I would hate for anything to short out when I hook up the battery. Since this is a magneto motor there isn't a special solenoid I need to use, is there? From what I understand there is a certain ignition that needs to be used in these motors. They actually sell magneto and regular motor ignition sets.

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Another restoration thread 13 Jul 2019 17:46 #97364

The 2nd wire is used with the 1st wire to put a kill switch on your motor just jump off where the wire goes to the vacuum switch the the other wire from the other set of points put both wires to a momentary switch that will kill the motor if that makes sense
Charlie
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Another restoration thread 13 Jul 2019 14:45 #97361

So … I started working on the electrical system on Thursday and came up with a couple questions. On my 58 seahorse I ended up replacing the entire ignition system, the impeller (which really needed to be replaced), and drained the oil (no water in the gearbox! Yay). While I was trying to figure out the electrical system, I noticed a couple of discrepancies between what I have and what the schematics I’ve been using, show. I have been using the schematic from this website (thankyou for that), the one in my repair manual, and other sources I’ve found online. All of which show pretty much the same wire routing. In each of the schematics there is a wire going from each point to a off switch. One wire routes through the vacuum cut-out switch on route. When I look at the stock wiring there is only one wire that comes from the engine and the other wire doesn’t actually exist. I also only have one wire coming from one of the points and non from the other. I suspect that the second wire didn’t actually exist on this motor, originally, and I deduce this from the state of the coils when I replaced them (I think they are the original coils) so I don’t think the ignition system has ever been worked on. The wires on the vacuum switch don’t match with the schematics either. So my questions to the feathercraft hive are as follows.
1. Is the second wire, from the other set of points required and should I wire it in or will it work just fine without that second wire?
2. Should I change the wires on the vacuum switch?

Wire I'm missing is scribbled out in blue ...


I have two wires in the wrong place ...

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Last edit: by syncromikey.

Another restoration thread 07 Jul 2019 21:54 #97183

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forgot you were a fairy-er.............:arrr: :biggrin:

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57' Fleet Ranger111-
57' Fleet Cartopper-
53' Deluxe Runabout-
56' Johnson's...Javelin, 2 x 30,15, and 7 1/2 hp
we have not inherited the earth from our fathers, we are borrowing it from our children

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Another restoration thread 07 Jul 2019 21:05 #97181

I spent 10 years shoeing horses, lugging this thing around.

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Another restoration thread 06 Jul 2019 16:08 #97135

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Here is a pic of my movable set up. 215# Peter Wright anvil. Doing a County Fair demo at the end of the month.
Sorry about the thread drift.


Scoot

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56/7 Vagabond 1, 57Clipper
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Another restoration thread 06 Jul 2019 13:28 #97133

The Vulcan anvil I have is a 100lb 'er. I don't do any blacksmithing (because my arms wouldn't be able to take the hammering anymore ... I have thought about blacksmithing but it's just too hard for an old body to get started on this sort of thing. I do quite a bit of metal and wood working though (side line business) so having an anvil is quite handy. I use it mostly for flattening metal, as a base for pretty much everything when I'm hammering and currently a great weight for making sure wood pieces being joined stay flat while the glue is curing. I'm always on the look out for anvils at garage sales but seldom see them up here. You're right, a good anvil will sell for quite a bit. You want to make sure that it isn't too beaten up on the hammering surfaces and that it has a nice "ring" to it when you hit it with a hammer. If it has a dull thud and the hammer doesn't spring back to hit you in the face, it could be cracked which decreases it's value quite a bit. I'd go back and to take another look at that anvil. 3 to 5 bucks a pound is a typical price for resale and the bigger it is the more people seem to want them but for practicality, in the home shop, a 100lb anvil is just about perfect. Small enough to move around but still large enough for pretty much any job you might have around the shop.
If you guys think the anvil is cool wait till I do some work on the lathe. My lathe is my shop baby!
Cheers,
Mike

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Another restoration thread 06 Jul 2019 12:44 #97131

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Anvils are hot items right now. Sell them pretty easy at 3 to 5 bucks a pound. "Forged in Iron" has had a big effect.


Scoot
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56/7 Vagabond 1, 57Clipper
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