Ray,

Does SCFM matter? I have a small compressor that says 5.0 SCFM at 90 psi. Will it work for riveting?

Trey,

The kit you showed will work, you might want to look at this kit from Aircraft Spruce, it has more bucking bars and you will find you need an assortment or them. You will also need a rivet set for a Modified Braizer head rivet.
I also don’t understand it but both these kits have a air flow control valve but you really need to be able to turn the pressure down with a easy to reach pressure relief valve, I usually use about 60 to 80 pounds depending on what I’m riveting.

www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivetkiteconomy.php

 

My transom was exactly the same like it warped or was torqued on.. 
I ended up deciding to beaf up with another 1/8” plate(was a lot of work and only what I did not necessary. New rivets and make it solid

I Pre-drill everything/counter sink, and do as much prep for cleaner look for finished product. It takes 3 times as long though … fit…take off.. fit take off…

sweet boat btw!!!

Ok. Lisa says to do it right. I'm going to need a rivet gun, some clecos, and some rivets. I know a little as I did a little volunteer work at the local Southern Museum of Flight while they were working on repairing some B-25 parts. What else do I need?

How about this one?
www.yardstore.com/aircraft-sheet-metal-t...it-with-3x-rivet-gun

This place also has used rivet guns. Too many options.

I think you are correct Neal, exactly what I would do.
Don’t worry about the old rivet  holes, they won’t line up, I would put in new rivets between the original ones and then put rivets through the old holes if possible mainly just to plug them. That is what I did with my Rocket.




 

From what I can see from the pics, looks like the angle of the vertical edge,of the brace dididnt match the angle of the transom, heavy at the bottom, they put it in and someone stepped on it to push it down to rivet the horizontal and to the front end, Ray's suggestion of removing the brace then straighten the transom an refitting the brace would cure it, might have to take some meat off the the rear horizontal edge that rivets to the bottom of the "T" stringer or the bottom edge of the vertical, allow it to lay natural with no stress against the transom, just my thought, what do you think Ray 

You may have to completely remove the brace.

I think I see what needs to be done. 
1. Drill out the rivets in blue.
2. Remove the front bracket in red.
3. Massage the transom back to flat which will move the brace forward
4. flatten the front bracket. 
5. Reassemble.

I just can't figure out why they built it that way.

Here is the front of the transom brace.



 

I’m sure they built my 56 Rocket with a big hook in the bottom, I drilled all the rivets out of the transom braces and moved it all where it should have been and then doubled up on the rivets when I riveted it back together.The bottom being flat is more important than the transom being flat,, but getting the wood to fit is going to take some work.