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Opinions re: brass into aluminum 17 Oct 2021 04:06 #115182

  • jmhyatt
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Thanks for the responses.  The first point that comes to my mind is that I don't need an elbow, I need a plug.  The instructions say to take the existing Tee and move it to the new hole in top of the block.  One side of the Tee goes to the pee hole, and the other side goes to the pressure gauge (which doesn't work either on my pontoon).  Then use a brass plug in the original hole.  If I break the original Tee while removing it, I may be looking for an elbow.  I did find some aluminum & plastic plugs on Ebay, and maybe I'll buy one (or a minimum 10-pack).

Based on Locomotion's  experience, I'll use my existing brass plug and plan to check it every 5 years or so.  Assuming the motor starts after I put in the new Timer Base...  We acquired this now-30 year-old pontoon boat with our lake house 15 years ago.  I'm kind of hoping that after installing the Timer Base, the motor miraculously runs 2x better than I've ever known since getting the boat.  If that happens, we'll probably refurbish the boat with new flooring & furniture, etc.  Another scenario is that it still doesn't start, in which case I'll probably bite the bullet and replace the boat..
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Opinions re: brass into aluminum 16 Oct 2021 15:57 #115169

The plastic fittings are neat and light but as far as the potential for brass reacting to Aluminum, I have spent the last 50+ years working on and restoring a wide range of machinery from Harley Davidson motorcycles, to outboard motors to locomotives and large industrial manufacturing equipment and I personally have never encountered a brass fitting that had a galvanic corrosion reaction to Aluminum.
I have seen the drain plug damage in Aluminum boats from brass or bronze components, I have no idea what the difference  is, trash elements in the casting would be my guess.
Proud Owner of 1956 Vagabond, 1950 Flyer, 1956 Rocket, Co-owner 1952 Flash, 10-1/2 less than VinTin
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Last edit: by Locomotion.

Opinions re: brass into aluminum 16 Oct 2021 15:55 #115168

There are quite a few of the Mercury elbows available on ebay currently with free shipping for less than ordering one from Marine Engine Parts and paying their minimum shipping costs.

Over the years I've seen the Mercury elbows in white, black, and red.  Not sure why that was.

I used them "to save weight" over brass fittings on my hydro motors.........right.

M
1957 FC Rocket -'58 Evinrude Lark 35
1958 FC Hawk 1-'59 Evinrude Lark 35 (and J-55)
1960 Starcraft 12' open boat-'76 Evinrude 25
1965 era McCorvey 3-point hydroplane-'52 Mercury KG-7H
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Opinions re: brass into aluminum 16 Oct 2021 14:20 #115167

i work on industrial/forklifts and on the impco lp systems they use a black plastic elbow just like elbow mercury uses and may be easier to find

 
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Opinions re: brass into aluminum 16 Oct 2021 11:40 #115164

Mercury has a pretty trick right angle plastic elbow that I've used on my home-brewed hydroplane engine cylinder head and cylinder water outlets it's PN 22 99664 2 "elbow."  Mercury used it to vent the magneto on the Mark series engines.

M
1957 FC Rocket -'58 Evinrude Lark 35
1958 FC Hawk 1-'59 Evinrude Lark 35 (and J-55)
1960 Starcraft 12' open boat-'76 Evinrude 25
1965 era McCorvey 3-point hydroplane-'52 Mercury KG-7H
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Opinions re: brass into aluminum 15 Oct 2021 23:26 #115157

I have done this modification to all my two cylinder OMC motors, use Teflon tape on the brass fitting and it will not corrode.
And it does look like they would have put the fitting at the top to begin with, some years of the two cylinders even had the tapped hole already threaded and you could just swap fittings.
Proud Owner of 1956 Vagabond, 1950 Flyer, 1956 Rocket, Co-owner 1952 Flash, 10-1/2 less than VinTin
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Opinions re: brass into aluminum 15 Oct 2021 22:55 #115156

  • jmhyatt
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Question for you guys:

I have a 1993 60HP Evinrude motor on a pontoon boat. The motor quit running a few weeks ago and has no spark on any of the three cylinders.  After some troubleshooting measurements, tomorrow I'll probably be replacing the "Timer Base" on the motor - a coil pickup cylinder under the flywheel that generates the signals used by the electronic "Power Pack" to fire each plug.  In the past few years I've replaced the Power Pack and the Rectifier/Regulator with aftermarket CDI parts.  Now I've bought a CDI Timer Base.

But here's the question:

CDI included a copy of an OMC Technical Service Bulletin 2276 R1, which describes moving the outlet for the pee tube from the original position on the side of the motor to a new position on top of the motor.  They say "The engine and electrical system can become damaged due to over-heating when air is trapped in the upper half of hte cooling system."  So I guess moving the pee tube to the top of the crankcase allows air to escape rather than creating a big bubble at the top of the motor.

The OMC TSB says to plug the original outlet hole with a 1/8" brass NPT plug, then drill & tap a new hole at a specified location at the top of the crankcase and put the original plastic (I believe) pee-tube fitting into the new hole.

Given what I've read/seen on this forum about interactions between brass and aluminum, I don't like the idea of putting a brass fitting into the aluminum crankcase.  Would you be comfortable doing this?  I'm thinking I'll put a brass one in tomorrow (because that's what I could find locally), but then will look for a plastic plug to replace it with soon.  But if y'all don't see anything wrong with using brass, I'll do it & fuggitaboutit.

On one hand, the instructions are from OMC, and you'd think they know what they're talking about.  On the other hand, if they were good at anticipating problems like corrosion between brass & aluminum, then they would have anticipated the cooling problem and I wouldn't need to do the modification.

What say/think ye all?

 

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