This is great. I was not really impressed with the play or smoothness of the coated cable I have used. Will defn try this one. Found it local here with end options 

Yeap, 3/16" dyneema is fine. Here is my setup. I have a locking brummel splice at the end of my line with a 10 x 7 eye at the end. Then I have a 5mm dyneema lashing also with the same brummel + eye. And then I do a lashing and decorative knot. 

Brummel video:


Lashings video:


 



 

I have 3/16 Dyneema rope on my steering set up. It’s hard to knot, because it’s pretty slippery, that said, we have it knotted (sailors) and it has held firm for 2 years now.

Hello,
Went new motor shopping at boat show last week for the '55 Vagabond.  Looks like best deal going, just like many on this site have said, is the 2023 Suzuki 25.  No one has the Suzuki 30 with short shaft.  No one at the boat show sold Tohatsus.  Most dealers were only interested in selling new boat complete packages, and not interested in small repower sales. 
Just wondering what some of you guys have experienced pricewise on a new white Suzuki 25 short shaft, remote controls, power tilt / trim installed.  Good to know where the bottom is before I start negotiations.

Thanks,
Phillip Henderson

Thanks for all the comments and great information on my steering update questions.  
After digesting everything I've decided to try the cable pulley system once again.  With 
new and correct parts it should work much better than my first attempt.  I'm also probably 
going to try the Dyneema rope which was suggested.  
What diameter Dyneema rope would work best with this system? 
Also, what would be the best
technique to tie off at the ends, knots or clamps?
Thanks,
Phillip Henderson

VinTin wrote:

I've seen some very positive comments on using dyneema rope on the pulley systems. 
It's very strong and very smooth and supposed to feel far superior to the plastic coated stainless steel wire rope. 
I will be using it on my next steering rig.
www.marlowropes.com/innovation/dyneema/

I have dyneema on mine a love it.

jmhyatt wrote:

I use cable and pulley steering on my DF25A Suzuki motor.  I'm pretty sure DeeDee and Nate are using it on their Zukes as well.  I think the mod they had to make is the same as Mike Tilley did:  they all have motors with Power Tilt & Trim (PTT).  My DF25A does NOT have PTT.  The PTT mechanism moves the motor's pivot point a couple inches aft on the transom.  This causes the steering cables to hit the transom if they're connected to the standard Suzuki steering bracket.  So everyone I've seen with the PTT Zuke fabricates a longer  "extended steering bracket", which allows them to connect steering cables without the cables rubbing against the transom.

It is Ben that has a modified steering on a Zuke. He's Nate's or DeeDee's brother in law. 

I use cable and pulley steering on my DF25A Suzuki motor.  I'm pretty sure DeeDee and Nate are using it on their Zukes as well.  I think the mod they had to make is the same as Mike Tilley did:  they all have motors with Power Tilt & Trim (PTT).  My DF25A does NOT have PTT.  The PTT mechanism moves the motor's pivot point a couple inches aft on the transom.  This causes the steering cables to hit the transom if they're connected to the standard Suzuki steering bracket.  So everyone I've seen with the PTT Zuke fabricates a longer  "extended steering bracket", which allows them to connect steering cables without the cables rubbing against the transom.

Here's a rather messy picture of the steering cables attached to my Zuke (using an Evinrude cable bracket attached to the standard Suzuki steering bracket).  In this photo, the motor is tilted up for trailering.  When the motor is tilted down in the running position, the steering pulleys are fairly close to the inside of the transom.  For Zuke's with PTT, the motor is moved aft about 1.5 - 2 inches (to make room for the PTT stuff).  This means when the motor is turned sharply to left or right, one of the cables will hit the top edge of the transom.  Therefore, everyone fabricates an extended version (1 - 2 inches longer) of the Suzuki steering bracket, or bolts an extension onto the provided bracket.

Keep in mind, if I'm not mistaken the transom of the Vagabond is a few inches narrower than the transom of my DR shown in this photo.

I think the cable and pully system adheres to the KISS theory of engineering.  Modifying and creating the brackets needed to use Teleflex type steering sure does add a whole lot of joints and connections.  In construction the connecting joints are always the weak points.  A minimum amount of time spent on checking the cable system and maintaining the set up has been just fine for me on my older motor.
Is it not feasable to install cable and pulley on the newer motors ?

I've seen some very positive comments on using dyneema rope on the pulley systems. 

It's very strong and very smooth and supposed to feel far superior to the plastic coated stainless steel wire rope. 

I will be using it on my next steering rig.

www.marlowropes.com/innovation/dyneema/