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New Boat - 55 Vaga2 20 Jul 2022 12:08 #121273

Don't get discouraged mkev2, your doing just fine.

The good thing is, using your reverse lock lever you're only using it usually at idle speed so I don't see a huge concern, the way you have it rigged. 

as far as the tilt lock lever, no worries eather, just cut yourself a piece of oak just longer than the width needed to support the motor when you want to raise it up. Drill a small hole, and attach a quarter inch line to the block, and tie it to the boat. put the block underneath when you want to tilt the motor up. Voila... Homemade tilt.

Don't get upset, the old girl still has plenty left in her. Run her hard And enjoy!!!!!
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New Boat - 55 Vaga2 20 Jul 2022 00:48 #121268

These motors have passed through a lot of hands over the years, it’s possible someone has mix and matched parts from different models, I have seen this happen often when I was restoring antique Harley Davidsons.
The big Mercury manual has a lot of part numbers listed you may be able to research to see if different rods or cams were used in different years.
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New Boat - 55 Vaga2 19 Jul 2022 20:29 #121266

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I agree that 1/8" is a big shim.  I see wear here and there, but nothing is sloppy enough to account for 1/8".  The rod looks fine, not bent.
I was thinking of this after coming in from the garage last night.  The distance from a fixed point on the transom bracket and the moving part - LU of the motor - has grown by 1/8".  I was thinking about what could cause that.  The king pin, so to speak, pivot point might be loose and allowed the motor to sag a bit.  That could do it.  I have not looked at it, but I would assume there are bearings if not some sort of bushing held together by a nut tightening it all down. I'll have to do some looking to see how that is set up. 

I also noticed that there is no mechanism to hold the motor in the tilted up position.  This just goes on and on. I can see why people buy new motors.

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New Boat - 55 Vaga2 19 Jul 2022 17:51 #121263

I'm always concerned when stock parts require modification to get them to function correctly, and a 1/8" shim seems like a massive amount of modification.
Are there any signs of wear on any of the components in this system? 
Is there any possibility the rod is bent?
I worry that modifying the original design could produce unforeseen problems in service. 
 
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Last edit: by Locomotion.

New Boat - 55 Vaga2 19 Jul 2022 16:34 #121262

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MKEV2
Well you’ll know this leg inside out now I’m thinking. Great documentation! I don’t have mercury but enjoyed the information.
thx
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New Boat - 55 Vaga2 19 Jul 2022 04:11 #121260

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Here is what I did to 'fix' the issue.  This is probably a hack job and someone in the future will be asking WTH did they do that for!!!

I welcome feedback.  I am not sure this will work in practice over the long haul, but it's working in my garage.  If there is something you see that I shouldn't have done, let me know.  I thought about using aluminum or stainless, but I had this HDPE on hand.

Recall the lower cam will rotate about 90 degrees with the shift shaft.  That rotation raises the upper cam 7/16". That movement pushes the reverse lock lever upward to rotate the hooks onto the bar locking the motor to the transom bracket.  This prevents the motor flipping up in R, but allows it to rotate if you hit something in F.  That is how I understand it anyway.  Correct me if I am off.

The hooks were rotating freely.  Everything was lubed and nothing was physically in the way preventing the hook rotation.  They just weren't rotating far enough.

I measured the vertical travel of the lock lever from hooks disengaged to hooks engaged at 9/16".  The cam can only provide 7/16" of travel so I figured that functionally, the mechanism was starting 1/8" lower than it should to get to full hook engagement.

Maybe a 1/8" shim would work to get everything closer to where it needed to be.

I found some 1/8" thick HDPE plastic sheet and created a shim under the lower cam. 

It worked.  The lock hooks now engage, and the motor is still free to flip up in F. 

For now, unless I have made matters worse, I'm going to stick with it.  I would like to know the real reason this is not working with stock parts.  Technically, it should not need a shim.  Maybe 60 years of wear on the parts added up to 1/8"? I don't know.

HDPE shim stock.


Shim placement.  Above the shift shaft assembly, but below the lower cam.


Lower cam shimmed up 1/8"


Upper cam shimmed up 1/8"


Hook engaged in R
 

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Last edit: by MKEV2.

New Boat - 55 Vaga2 19 Jul 2022 03:50 #121259

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Last update about this blasted lower unit?I think I have it 'fixed'. 2 posts - first one will be about how I was installing the shift cams and second is how I rigged it so it would work.The directions for a noob on how to put a LU back together once you've rotated shift shaft and removed the cams is hard to find.  The manual gives some direction, but that leaves questions.  The best description I saw was from a guy name Ed on Marineengine.com. follow this LINK .  It's well written and I'm including it here because his post is 6 years old and sometimes post disappear.  Maybe this will help someone else.

Turn the shaft CCW a bit more, with a pair of suitable pliers cushioned with tape or a shop rag so you don't mar the shift shaft splines. As you're turning more CCW you'll feel a "notch" which should be Neutral. Verify by spinning the propshaft.

From Neutral, turn the shift shaft further CCW thru a bit more resistance and when you turn the driveshaft the propshaft should rotate in the reverse direction. Note that as you're shifting to Reverse gear, you may need to rotate the prop a bit to get things aligned.

If all that works, and you have your gears Neutral, it's time to get 'er installed. Turn the shift shaft clockwise thru Neutral, and back to Fwd. Align the shift shaft so that it's just getting ready to shift to Neutral, but is still in Fwd gear.

Take your lower brass reverse lock cam and line it up on the shift shaft as per the first diagram. You can see how the brass cam aligns with the stud on the Port side of the unit.

The upper reverse lock cam "nestles" into the lower cam, such that the 2 "tabs" on sides of the cam are pointing 90-degrees from the centerline of the gearcase. Such that those ears will fit in the corresponding slots in the mid-section when you're installing the lower unit.

Before you reinstall the L/U, disconnect the shift cable from the shift arm at the motor pan.

Position the motor's shift arm all the way aft. This is the correct alignment for installation and corresponds with Fwd gear.

When you're reinstalling the L/U, make sure the copper water supply tube engages the pump's rubber grommet. You may have to "jiggle" the motor's shift arm just a wee bit to get perfect alignment with the shift shaft spines, as you're pushing the L/U home.

Once you have the L/U mated to the mid-section, check your shifting action at the motor.

When this is correct, shift the control box and motor end to Neutral and connect your shift cable. There should be a slight amount of "preload" on the cable, pushing to Neutral. Once this adjustment is good, Reverse should work properly as well. Adjust the ferrule on the shift cable as needed.


I followed those directions.  This worked for me, but once done, the reverse lock did not work.  Shifting was fine and smooth.  I don't think it worked before I replaced all the parts.

Here are the pictures of the cams. 

Picture from the manual.  Align the tabs with the port stud.


Base shift shaft bushing assembly with oil seal.


Lower cam installed with tabs aligned with port stud.


Upper cam installed.  It's now ready to slide up into the lower unit.  The 2 tabs on the upper cam slide into slots in the casing.

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Last edit: by MKEV2.

New Boat - 56 Vaga2 17 Jul 2022 01:50 #121224

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Another update:Seems this thread is getting bogged down in the outboard details rather than actual feathercraft/boating topics. I bolted the LU up again last night.  Same results.  No change. I have F, N and R and it shifts fine, but no reverse lock.  The hooks just don't rotate enough to catch.  I verified that the shift shaft rotates about 90 degrees from F to R and that is enough to make the reverse lock cam rotate and raise the reverse lock lever that Marc showed below about 7/16". That action should rotate the hooks around and engage a bar and prevent the motor from flipping up in N or R.  It appears that I am getting the full 7/16", but it's not enough to engage the hooks.  Root cause is unknown, but I think that the cam may be sitting too low so that 7/16" movement and subsequent rotation is starting too far from the engaged/locked position.  My thought is I could raise up the cam so that the lever and hook travel starts closer to the engaged position.  I could put an aluminum or stainless shim under the lower cam and above the shift shaft bushing assembly. I'm curious if the height of the new shift shaft bushing assembly is shorter than the old one.  That could cause this.  I'll check when I have everything apart again.Any thoughts on this 'fix'?Picture shows the hooks 'engaged' but not engaged. Then again fully disengaged - ie in Fwd.
Thanks

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New Boat - 56 Vaga2 15 Jul 2022 03:49 #121192

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Ok I dropped the LU again, and everything looked fine and I was able to move it all by hand.  I then removed the reverse lock lever and cleaned it and the shift shaft "tunnel" of some grim, but nothing extensive.  I greased the pivots of the reverse lock and the rotating 'hook' part up on top.  Again, everything seems to be in place and operating.  I then found R, N and F on the LU and got everything ready to bolt back up tomorrow night.  Wish me luck. 

 

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New Boat - 56 Vaga2 14 Jul 2022 11:12 #121159

This is your reverse lock lever, it's in the bottom of the midsection.
 

I would drop the lower unit make sure there's no congealed grease, dirt or debris in the way for this lever to move freely. It's pinned on one side and supposed to move freely up and down when in reverse and forward.

I would drop the lower unit and look up the midsection to clean out your reverse locking mechanism the best you can, then spray the reverse locking assembly and you're locking lever with WD-40. That should fee up enough movement for you.
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