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Electrical question 12 Feb 2019 20:04 #93406

  • Boatboy
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It sounds to me like you have a 1958 wiring harness and a 1957 motor. That's what I have on my boat. I stop my motor by closing the throttle and, if it continues to run, push the choke button. I also have a 1958 Evinrude Lark which I eventually plan to put on my 1958 Vagabond. Then everything will be correct.

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John

1958 Vagabond II & 35 HP Evinrude
1955 PlastiCraft 12 Ft. Delux Runabout
1957 Clipper & twin 35 HP Evinrudes
1957 AlumaCraft 14 Ft. FD
Last edit: by Boatboy.

Electrical question 12 Feb 2019 16:46 #93403

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FishbonzWV wrote: Jay,
Usually the '57's only have a wire on one set of points. This wire is attached to the vacuum switch to shut down one cylinder in case of engine runaway.
What you have to do is add a wire to the second set of points and make it long enough to reach your harness.
You then tie one of the key switch wires to the new wire and the other key switch wire to the vacuum wire.
When the key is off the two point wires are shorted together, stopping the motor.

===========================================

As Bonz says for a 57.

This wiring change would allow you to easily install an emergency lanyard controlled kill switch right there at the dash.
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Last edit: by VinTin.

Electrical question 12 Feb 2019 16:28 #93402

Jay,
Usually the '57's only have a wire on one set of points. This wire is attached to the vacuum switch to shut down one cylinder in case of engine runaway.
What you have to do is add a wire to the second set of points and make it long enough to reach your harness.
You then tie one of the key switch wires to the new wire and the other key switch wire to the vacuum wire.
When the key is off the two point wires are shorted together, stopping the motor.
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Bones

Some people mature with age whilst others ferment.
1954 Deluxe Runabout
1956 Ranger III
1959 SkiBo (2)
Last edit: by FishbonzWV.

Electrical question 12 Feb 2019 16:28 #93401

It probably would be a good idea to carefully clean all the connection points. I clean the pins in the engine harness with a small cup brush in a Dremel tool. Then I cleaned out the pin receptacles in the external motor to junction box cable with a Q-tip wrapped with very fine steel wool. I put that in the electric drill and spin it at low RPM while I work it in and out of each pin hole. Of course you want to check and probably clean all the connection points inside the junction box, as well as checking the cables for continuity, including checking the ignition switch for contact between the mag-kill connections for the two black wires.

I assume that you do have the correct ignition switch and that the wire inside the motor cover running from the harness to the vacuum engine kill assembly is connected and in good shape.

It's probably something simple.

Merky
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Electrical question 12 Feb 2019 16:06 #93400

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Jay,

The two black wires are used to kill the engine, this is the same set up I have on my 1958 35hp. When the key switch is turned off it should short the two black wires out. one of the sketches on the Hook up Wiring page details this.

"1958 Wiring Harness"

www.feathercraft.net/fc-info/2-uncategor...up-wiring-cables-etc

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Last edit: by sgower.

Electrical question 12 Feb 2019 15:52 #93398

Is my 1957 35 hp Lark able to shut off the engine using the key switch or is that year only able to cut off by throttling back and stalling it out or pull the choke as it states on the engine to stall out? I have the two black wires coming out of the wire harness that's plugs into the motor going all the way up to the two extra spots on the ignition switch, just like I did my 1962 Lark.... but the 1957 doesn't shut off. Starts great butt won't shut off. Any help is appreciated

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