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TOPIC: Rascal renovation / upgrade

Rascal renovation / upgrade 15 Apr 2018 14:58 #83971

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great advice Rick.......i like that CPES product, it is very simular to the epoxy finish i used on my floor decks.........with one twist, as it is still wet i sprinkle some silica sand from a salt shaker to create a non slip surface........

GB, if your going to glue, make sure its an exterier glue, regular carpenters glue will fail if it gets wet.........i have had great results using PL Premium Glue.........just a thought to ponder...........your floor decks are looking great............cheers

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Rascal renovation / upgrade 15 Apr 2018 14:33 #83969

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Even if you don't have inside storage, I imagine you'll have a boat cover, so there won't be constant weather exposure?
Anything that you wet the wood with is going to darken it some. One finish recipe that works pretty well to preserve wood without dramatically altering it's appearance is a mix: 50% - mineral spirits, 25% - spar varnish and, 25% - boiled linseed oil. Flood this on and let soak for a few minutes and then wipe off the excess and allow to dry. You can repeat this a couple times without noticeably building up a finish. You can even cut a test piece to see how well it penetrates. I use this on outdoor furniture with good results.
I probably wouldn't do this before assembly though as it'll likely interfere with the glue bond. If you're determined to coat first, coating with CPES and using epoxy for assembly would be better.

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Rascal renovation / upgrade 15 Apr 2018 05:00 #83966

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So, regarding the floor upgrade I started by building those frames to get a template for plywood floor. Got to learn how to use a miter saw..

Then I changed my mind and went for mahogany (teak was too expensive) and the frame turned out to be useless. Better to just cut the board, try it and keep adjusting again and agin till it fits. Because measuring just does not work

I then found out the hard way that (mahogany?) saw dust is really bad for your eyes. I usually don't do that many cuts and that never bothered me before but I made the right choice and got some protective gear, which I really don't regret.

Now come the questions
- I don't like dark red mahogany so I picked planks as light colored as possible. What is the best way to protect them without altering the color too much. I don't really want glossy and like the natural look
- I was thinking about doing the coating before the assembly (probably screw just to line up everything properly then wood glue ) so that the space between the slats would be simply easier to stain/paint this time around.

The boat will be on a trailer 99% of the time and given how much time I spent on those floors, I WILL make sure they are protected from the rain (don't have spare space in garage). Based on that, can I just stain them?
https://www.wikihow.com/Waterproof-Wood

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1954 Deluxe Runabout

Rascal renovation / upgrade 27 Mar 2018 11:33 #83398

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GB wrote:

sgower wrote: For the back I under the gas tanks and battery I ended up using Trex Decking. As my Vagabond spend most of the summer in the water I need a material that was resistant to water.


Is the point here that with the motor, the stern is seating much lower in the water and any water accumulates there primarily?


Yes. The weight of the motor, battery, and gas tank(s). I used the trex decking in both my Vagabond and my wife's DR. The back end of the DR is so small that the battery and gas tank cover up most of the flooring regardless of what you use. In my Vagabond it is a little more visible. I keep two gas tanks and the battery in the back of my Vagabond. I only run with one tank full for the most part, I will fill the second tank on long trips.

This is not so much an issue for those who trailer their boats. You can install an auto bilge float switch if it becomes to much of an issue.

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Rascal renovation / upgrade 27 Mar 2018 09:54 #83394

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here is my version of plank flooring running the length of the boat.....acheivable by making stringers that run side to side, i used mahogany for the stringers and cedar for the deck......

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57' Fleet Ranger111-
57' Fleet Cartopper-
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56' Johnson's...Javelin, 2 x 30,15, and 7 1/2 hp
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uppercanadachapteroftheaomci.yolasite.com/

Rascal renovation / upgrade 27 Mar 2018 00:55 #83377

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sgower wrote: For the back I under the gas tanks and battery I ended up using Trex Decking. As my Vagabond spend most of the summer in the water I need a material that was resistant to water.


Is the point here that with the motor, the stern is seating much lower in the water and any water accumulates there primarily?

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1954 Deluxe Runabout

Rascal renovation / upgrade 27 Mar 2018 00:53 #83376

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VinTin wrote: By far the best looking floors I've seen in an aluminum boat are wooden planks.Truly beautiful Vs. plywood and/or indoor/outdoor carpet.


I'd like to use planks but for some reason (probably because I do spend some time on sailboats with decks like that) I wanted the look of plank going from aft to forward, and not starboard to port. But to minimize weight, the plans should be across the beam to leverage the stringers. I still have to make up my mind.

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Rascal renovation / upgrade 26 Mar 2018 18:59 #83336

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I used oak plywood for the front and center flooring with a Feather Craft Decal mounted in the center. I polyurethane two coats, then apply the decal and add three more coats.

For the back I under the gas tanks and battery I ended up using Trex Decking. As my Vagabond spend most of the summer in the water I need a material that was resistant to water.

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Rascal renovation / upgrade 26 Mar 2018 18:43 #83334

Re: carrying the load to the stringers, I have used two things in my DR. First I used a scrap of that 2" pink insulating foam that is referred to in this thread. It worked well, but I didn't attach it very well, and after about a year it broke a couple times from wallowing around, so I switched to some stiff closed-cell packing foam. That white stuff (but not beaded Styrofoam) that you might find around computer in a shipping box, etc. It's quite stiff, and I felt it worked fine - as did the pink foam. Lightweight, easy to trim to size, and plenty enough support for the application. I've been thinking of my 5/16 oak plank floor (found a carton for $20 at the local Habitat ReStore) as a temporary solution for about 3 years now, so I've never got around to attaching the foam properly. But I'm kind of wishing I had glued the foam to the bottom of the floor with e.g. construction adhesive.

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Rascal renovation / upgrade 26 Mar 2018 17:20 #83327

VinTin wrote: By far the best looking floors I've seen in an aluminum boat are wooden planks.Truly beautiful Vs. plywood and/or indoor/outdoor carpet.


This is coming from a guy who doesn't even have floors in his boats :hand:
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