I didn't read through this entire thread- but do you have a factory shop manual for your motor?
May I respectfully submit that you get one if you don't have one in hand. It can go a long way in taking the fight out of a stubborn motor.
I also keep a log of data on carb settings/different props/height, tilt pin location, fuel mixture (oil to gas ratio) etc.

My initials are GB too- George Bressler
but to the Feathercraft faithful I remain-
merc geo

I just used whatever I had while waiting for the new cork packing washers and took the boat for a ride. The good news is that with something close to the default settings, the motor just started "fairly easily" and ran without really giving much trouble, so this 6th carb cleaning of the year with a brand new float must have helped.

Anyway, in WOT, the motor does not seem to rev as high as when I got it a year ago (before I screwed everything up). I could not get it to plane and I know it could with 2 adults and 2 kits on boards while I was on my own this time.
The interesting thing is that the motor did not seem to care much about the high speed needle setting, meaning 3/4 turn to 2 turns made no difference whatsoever. If I went to 1/2 turn, it started to have trouble, so I think I was indeed about 1 turn from the seat.

Actually, thinking about it now, I might have forgotten to open the vent on the plastic tank. Could that be it?

FYI, I drained the tank, made fresh mix, around 32:1 and I don't see much or any oil down the gearcase this time. Note that I have not done the mod for the oil recovery.

I did not bother to try adjusting the low speed needle

Even though that is not the right symptom, I had put some marks to the prop and shaft before trying the motor (as I broke the shear pin on the shaft last year) and the hub is definitely not spun.

This is a big Twin 1955 and I had reinstalled the tiller (you know, after my steering cable broke last year). I don't think it limits the travel of the throttle but I have not checked looking into the air intake.

So, I can resign myself to taking the family to a very leisurely cruise right now bor you guys can give me a few clues. I'd like to persevere a bit more and if I still fail, I got great recommendations from several boaters for a grumpy but talented mechanic. But that fundamentally bothers me that I can't figure it out..

If you need, I can get some videos. I got a friend to come with me on a kayak, case I needed some help towing...

I don't know exactly when they switched from three packing washers to two packing washers sandwiched between two nylon washers. I would assume the newer configuration is an improvement over the three packing washer set up. I am not running any of the newer motors that call for the newer set up so I don't have any first hand knowledge how that system holds up. So far, I am having good luck with the o-ring set up and it's cheep.

Boatboy wrote: I would buy four more of the cork packing washers. However, I have been using two o-rings on each needle as a replacement for the three packing washers called for. If you go with the o-rings they should measure: 1/4" ID X 3/8" OD. They can be found at most hardware stores. The o-rings are a little thicker than the cork packing washers, that's why you only need two on each needle.

John, do you still use the plastic washer so you dont cut into the orings?

I bow to your wisdom John.
This is about the time I would bring out the BMFHammer.......

I would buy four more of the cork packing washers. However, I have been using two o-rings on each needle as a replacement for the three packing washers called for. If you go with the o-rings they should measure: 1/4" ID X 3/8" OD. They can be found at most hardware stores. The o-rings are a little thicker than the cork packing washers, that's why you only need two on each needle.

Thanks Boatboy

The carb kit came with
- 2 cork like the one you mentionned
- 2 transparent plastic one
- 2 red rubber like ones (they look a bit too wide)
I have a bunch of black rubber/nylon one but I can't tell if they were in the kit (or are from the one I removed from the existing setup

Do I need to get more cork-like ones (18-7106-9 - Needle Packing 10 Pack 307583) or can I use the ones from the kit but then in which order?

GB

Your motor calls for three packing washers on each needle valve. They are available from any Evinrude supplier. They look like a cork material that has been infused with graphite.

I'm rebuilding the carb once again.
I did find a tiny bit of cork at the needle seat but I'm not sure that would be that much of a problem. However, a lot of stuff got washed away by the fuel when I removed the needle last time.
I also found something unexpected. some of the hot dope had dropped to the bottom of the bowl.. strange given how long I let that thing air dry. Anyway moving to a brand new new cork float





and I checked that all the holes of the slow speed jet were not obstructed. All clear there (at least now)

I have a few questions regarding the packing for the needles.
The picture below shows in black some of the existing packing
What I'm also showing (brown) is something that came with the carb kit that fits the size



1) the packing hitting the bottom of the needle hole has a conic shape and hugs the needle a lot more than the other washers. Is this a special packing or does it just get shaped by the pressure when screwing? It also looks thicker and looking at some carb cross-section from the user manual, it does look conic. However, the part manual makes no differentiation

2) To find those packing, do you just go to an auto part shop to find matching sizes?

3) my carb currently has lots of those packing but the exploded view of the part catalog shows 2 for the slow speed and 4 for the high speed. Do I stick to that or do I put margin if what I buy is thinner?

4) Can I use what came with the carb kit (not enough anyway..)? Do I need this cork material or can I just use rubber (or whatever that is)

Thanks
GB

i remember my first lean fart, scared the crap out a me.......