Locomotion wrote: I didn’t know you were in the lawnmower business?
Worked in a shop in high school and college. My dad was regional distributor for small engines and parts including Briggs. First job at age 14 was at a rental kart track where I did small engines through today basic work on kart and outboard motors. Years ago found an old Briggs 3hp trimmerat a yard sale. Was 10pm, told my wife I’d have it running by 11 o’clock pm news time. First check; no spartK..oh no!! Pulled flywheel, opened points gap, set the flywheel on, spun it; SPARK!! Put it together, fired up 2 minutes til 11pm news! Early mistake; new points, assembled engine including flywheel, no spark! Points came coated is cosmolene. Had to tear it down again. After that, cleaned points, tested for spart before flywheel bolted back on...I know what I know, but more importantly, know what I DON’T know-when I call in the experts..like Loco...
When I got into that pile of aluminum downstairs, I realized that three of the blocks were 15 cube A-Stock Mercs, another was a 17 cube Wizard......figure. Murphy's law as it applies to parts inventory.
My Kg-4/MK-15's A-stock motors would run as fast as the KG-7 would. 56mph was the fastest I ever saw on a Keller meter. That was with the powerhead that Quincy blueprinted.
Today it hit me right square in the back of the head. I actually have another complete parts motor (which had spent some time in brackish water) hiding in the corner "motor pile," with a Johnson 18 cowling covering up the tank. It's on a stock lower unit. You are welcome to it if we can get it up there. It's a KF-7 Lighting. I could pull the powerhead if need be. I have no idea what it looks like inside.. I'd like to keep the fuel tank though, it's pretty nice. Pretty sure the mag is a Bendix.
That corner is legendary.
1957 FC Rocket -'58 Evinrude Lark 35
1958 FC Hawk 1-'59 Evinrude Lark 35 (and J-55)
1960 Starcraft 12' open boat-'76 Evinrude 25
1965 era McCorvey 3-point hydroplane-'52 Mercury KG-7H
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I used this method to strain crankshafts in vertical lawn mower engines that had hit and bent the crankshaft. This was done with the crank still,in the engine. Engine bolted to a frame, a hardened steel cover put over the shaft with a very crude run out indicator on the crank,cover. Frame had block fulcrum built in under the crank, wheth a hardened bolt also in the frame opposite the fulcrum. Rotated crank,with the recoil,with plug out, found high” side,ie,thembend,in the crank away from true straight. Then tightened the bolt down against the hardened crank,cover, against the fulcrum, bending the shaft in the opposite direction past true straight. Crank,would spring back, check,run out, repeat until.got minimal bend. These bends were those not effecting the lower crank seal, and obviously not breaking. Those were unusually done on newer cheap mowers with direct vs belt drive. A cheap way to salvage the engine without the cost of tearing it down and replacing the crank. These OEM engines often cost more to purchase whosale,than the mower cost originally. Did many of them, reclining them back,to practical use
This is the way to set up to check runout on V blocks.
Just be careful to not move anything and turn the crank slowly by hand, you can check prop shafts, drive shafts or any shaft that you need to know if it's straight. Doing it this way you need to check the section of the shaft that is on the V block with a micrometer to make sure it is round, if it is out of round it will show the the out of round as runout as you turn the shaft.
In this case you don't really need expensive tooling, the cheap stuff will work just as well. Tons of choices on eBay,