www.feathercraft.net

Hello,
I have a 57 Rocket. The gunwale is textured aluminum. The hull is anodized blue.
1. I would like to polish the outside. Could someone recomment a method, including the tools needed and the type(s) and amount of chemicals. The web link you hve on this page does not give the type of polish (coarse, fine) and the amount. Also, some people claim that the anodized layer has to be first removed (with owem cleaner?) and then it can be dry sanded?

2. I would like to either paint the inside or tho have it polished as well. Any suggestions?

3. All wood has to be replaced. Ther is a marine grade fir plywood available here sutable for the transom and the deck. I would like to use something nicer for the seats, would a non-marine grade plywood be sutable if appropriately finished?

4. I would like to do the transom and the deck right now and polish later. Would I have to remove all woodwork?

Thanks in advance!

Hana

It is not recommended that you polish the inside. The concave surface polished tends to redirect the sunlight and heat up the inside.

_________________
Steve Gower
Web Master http://www.feathercraft.net
Owner: 1955 Vagabond, 1956 30HP Johnson/1958 35HP Johnson
Thread Drifter....

Go to the Nuvite web site. You can get answers to all your polishing questions.

The link for nuvite is on the weblinks part of this site:

http://Www.perfectpolish.com

_________________
Steve Gower
Web Master http://www.feathercraft.net
Owner: 1955 Vagabond, 1956 30HP Johnson/1958 35HP Johnson
Thread Drifter....

As far as painting goes, I have heard success stories and horror stories. I think the secret is in the preparation. Very simply -clean, etching primer, paint.

_________________


"I would rather have a mind opened by wonder than one closed by belief." - Gerry Spence

Thank you all for your replies!
1. I really appreciate the advice about polishing the inside. How about painting it? Will it detract sugnificantly from the hull's value? (it is in a very good condition for its age).

2.I do not find the nu-shine's site very helpful. I understand this possibility. I am wondering if there is a cheaper way(something I can buy locally, (NYC tri-stae), and do away without the polisher, using my angle grinder.

3.Anybody has advice about wood-related questions? Also, the original floor is"split", i.e. the "drain weel" in the center of the boat is left open. I would like to make a continuous floor. I wonder if there is a particular reason the floor was made this way (split)?

Thanks ALL!
Hana

A bit wordy, but much is explained here:

http://forum729.activeboard.com/t38959710/stripping-blasting-polishing/

Floors? I think factory original was a piece of plywood cut to shape and screwed down. I have seen almost as many different floors as there are boats. Plywood, slats, diamond plate, etc. I once built one out of cedar fence boards. As long as it is well supported, do what you want.

I used epoxy garage floor paint on the inside of a boat. Seemed to work well. I sold the boat so I don't know how it is holding up.

_________________


"I would rather have a mind opened by wonder than one closed by belief." - Gerry Spence

Thank you!
I would want to varnish the deck. Is the regular marine varnish OK?
As far as the original design goes, this is what puzzles me: the deck consists of 4 pieces, 2 in front of driver row seats and 2 for back seats. The two halves do not meet; the leave a space about 5-6" emplty in the middle. Is this done to facilitate the water drainage? (In this case I would have to copy it). I would like NOT to have this empty channel, if I can help it.
Thanks !
Hana

Hard to visualize this. Any chance you could post some photos?

_________________


"I would rather have a mind opened by wonder than one closed by belief." - Gerry Spence

CHEAPER POLISH trials. HANA.: There are always decent results from a low budget
trial .. Do not know what a Angle grinder can do for ya that you mentioned.. I have done some WET sanding with the black paper.. Any liquid metal polish can be tried
by hand.. I got two bottles of a stainless food service product at a thrift store for total of one dollar... I am having better shine results with a THINNER liquid called a SWIRL remover. GM brand -Black bottle.. Again flea market find 50 cents..This with
TWO cloth wheel pads in a electric Drill seems to be not bad.. Those same wheel pads would be used in the bench grinder for hand held parts..
I dont think I am a fan of painting the inside Aluminum surface. I have polish some
inside spots for a test & seems to clean easy..